Tuesday, April 2, 2019

wigs

Godiva Secret Wigs as a solution for thinning hair and hair loss for women.

I became a consultant for Godiva Secret Wigs about 3 years ago.  It all started when I was looking for a "topper" for my fine, thin, hair.  It's very frustrating to work with hair, all kinds of hair, throughout the day and be unable to make your own fine, thin, hair look like much more.  All the sprays and gels in the world won't give you more hair! That's what you do with fine, thin, hair...you make something out of nothing!  And that takes time.  Moreover, living in Florida with the humidity, you can smooth and straighten only to have your hair turn to frizz by midday.

I've been doing hair in one aspect or another (styling, training, educating, etc) for over 36 years and honestly, my lower back, arms and shoulders are worn out!  So when my day is done, it is sometimes too uncomfortable for me to be doing all that blow drying, flat ironing and styling for myself!
So my search began.  I ordered a topper and was disappointed because I still had to deal with the rest of my hair.  At that time, Godiva did not offer the choices for colors that they now have.  So if I would have gone that route, I would have had to dye my hair to match the topper and what was the point?  More work for me.   I decided to try the full wig and I'm so glad I did.  It takes no time at all to look glamorous with a full head of healthy looking, thick hair!  The wigs helped me so much that I wanted to share what I had learned with other "thinning hair" women.  So I became a consultant.  I now am able to offer styling to my clients as a free service when they purchase through me. 

I've been told that when I don my wig, I look 20 years younger!  That right there is motivation enough for me!

Because of becoming a wig-wearer, I was able to stop coloring my hair and see just how gray I had become.  It took me about a year to grow all my color out and now I have a beautiful head of almost white hair.  The challenge there was learning to deal with gray hair that was uncolored.  Gray hair, no matter the texture or density tends to be wiry and a little more frizzy than I would like.  Having natural curl made my situation even trickier.  I had to play around with conditioning treatments, smoothing treatments and ultimately a relaxer so not to be susceptible to the hair wrecker, "humidity"!  That also took time, but now I have a lot to share with other women about just what steps to take. 

Because we use Chi Ionic color in our salons and that is what I used on my hair when I colored it, I was spoiled by the infusion of silk protein into the color which, in turn, was absorbed into my hair and so I had a misconception about my natural hair.  When I stopped coloring, I had to deal with my gray hair in its natural state.  Thus, the experimentation with conditioning and smoothing to get to a place where I could wear my natural hair if I so desired. 

I finally settled on the Chi Smoothing treatment.  It's not permanent, but it gives me the semi-permanent silkiness and smoothing that I need. 

These Godiva wigs are such a quality product that my customer are constantly complementing me on my hairstyle and they are always shocked when I tell them "it's a wig". 

I think because of my many, many years of hair styling, I am able to customize the styles to suit me exactly and I have received many awesome reviews from my wig-wearing customers.

These wigs are so easy to maintain.  Because they are synthetic hair, they only require shampooing every 14 wears.  I shampoo, condition, blot dry, shake out and hang to dry.  The style looks just the same when its dry.  You see, the style is "steamed" in.  They never need thermal styling, just arrange with your fingers and go!  My life couldn't be simpler. 

The most rewarding thing about being a Godiva Secret Wig consultant is how appreciative the wearers that I help with choosing and styling their new hair.  Most people have come to me in preparation for or after chemo treatments and in that is where the satisfaction lies.

My oldest wig is 3 years old and still looks awesome.  These wigs are work horses if you take care of them.  And that doesn't require a lot of work at all or I wouldn't be doing it. 

PERMS

My hair doesn't take a perm.

OMG!  If I hear that one more time.  There are rarely customers whose hair cannot be permed.  They may have resistant hair that requires more expertise and skill in perming, but in all my years, I have not met anyone whose hair cannot be permed.

In order to clarify, lets go back and look at what happens during the perming process.   There are three aspects to perming, the physical part or the wrapping of the hair on her rods or rollers, the chemical part, the choosing of the proper formula for the hair type, and the proper application and execution of the physical and chemical aspects. Wrapping the hair is the first part of the perming process which I don’t consider to be a “step” and is is so important!  It seems so easy to so many stylists that they don’t focus on every detail; the size of the subsections, rods on base, no unnecessary tension, the smoothness and evenness if the hair on the rods, and what about protecting the delicate skin around the hairline? This is so unorganized in a lot of cases. Sometimes there are so many rods put in the head, and putting in such a fashion that it’s impossible to keep track of which roads have been saturated in which haven’t. That being said with proper wrapping then we proceed to the actual steps. In step one, the softening, the hair is saturated with waving lotion, bonds are broken apart so that they can shift past each other when wound on the rod or perming tool.  If the wrong strength of solution is used or if the proper solution is used improperly or incompletely, here is where the problem may begin.  In step two, the processing of the solution, again, I repeat that if you do not follow manufacturers instructions, or do not know what to look for when attempting to determine if the processing is complete, problem again.  Step three involves the rinsing or "setting" of the hair in the new position.  You remove all chemical and water and “set” the hair to get ready to be hardened in the new configuration. Once again, most times this is a big problem.  A lot of hairstylists do not have proper training and/or desire to do what it takes, i.e. rinse until the smell is gone and all of the waving lotion is removed.  This requires time and very warm water which “opens” the cuticle and allows the proper rinsing “out” of the chemical. This next step is crucial and so overlooked. BLOTTING EACH AND EVERY ROD until there is no excess water left in the hair.  Most hairstylist preferred to squeeze the head  with all the perm rods with a towel much like you would squeeze a melon.  This is a big problem! The excess water left in the hair will dilute the neutralizer, the last step, which actually makes the curl in the hair. Until this part of the process there is no curl.  And last but not least,  they put the neutralizer on haphazardly, the perm seems like there’s curls in it when the rods are taken down, because of the temporary hydrogen bonds, but after the guest leaves,  the curlfalls out leaving the customer to think “my hair doesn’t take a perm“.

One salon chain that works closely with perming manufacturers and gets training from those manufacturers is FANTASTIC SAMS.  The training ensures that things are done properly.  Something to think about.

Thursday, March 28, 2019

Female hair loss

The most common complaint from women in the salon is about thinning hair.  They always want to know what causes it and what they can do about it.

Unfortunately, this matter is somewhat complex.  That is, that there is not one single reason for hair loss.  In order to help people, I find myself giving them Cosmetology 101 on How hair grows.  From that point, like a detective, I make inquiries about their regular grooming and hairstyling habits, their health, their diet, and, of course, stress and/or changes in their life.  From there we draw our conclusions and sometimes they heed the recommendations and take action. 

The best way to explain the way hair grows is to think of the hair follicles as tiny trees or plants and there being an underground supply that nourishes those hair follicles.  Hair growth is completely dependent on what is happening below the surface (scalp). 

Like growing seasons, hair follicles have similar cycles.  Any interruption in those "seasons" or cycles often results either temporarily  or permanently in hair loss or hair thinning. 

Although most of the emphasis on baldness is geared toward men, women are also at great risk and also llikey to lose their hair or have thinning hair.  Most of the time, this noticeably hair loss in women occurs in their 50s or older, but I have also seen it occur in much younger females.  Hair thinning or loss happens for many different reasons. 

There are three hair cycles: anagen, catagen and telogen.  At any given time, about 90% of the hair on our heads is in the ANAGEN (growth) cycle. that means that most of our  hair is "growing".  This cycle lasts from two to eight years.  The CATAGEN phase is one in which the follicle shrinks.  The catagen phase is a short transition stage that occurs at the end of the anagen phase. It signals the end of the active growth of a hair. This phase lasts for about 2–3 weeks while the hair converts to a club hair.  This process cuts the hair off from its blood supply and from the cells that produce new hairFifty to one-hundred club hairs are shed daily from a normal scalp  During the TELOGEN phase, the hair rests.  Typically, a hair is in the anagen phase for two to four years, then enters the telogen phase, rests for about two to four months, and then falls out and is replaced by a new, growing hair. The average person naturally loses about 100 hairs a day.When hairs are coming out of the TELOGEN phase, new hair pushes out the old hair that has been resting and has been getting less nutrients.   When the body is subjected to extreme stress, as much as 70 percent of hair can prematurely enter the telogen phase and begin to fall, causing a noticeable loss of hair. 

To recap:  The hair grows, stops growing, rests, and new hairs push out the "resting" hairs.  Extreme stress can force many more hairs than normal to begin to fall out. 

Most women know or notice when there is an increase of hair loss.  Some signs would be excessive hair on the pillow, more hairs than usual on the comb or brush.  You most likely will notice thinning on the top third to one half of the scalp.  This is unlike men whose hair loss is generally noticed in receding hairline on the forehead or the crown.  Women may also notice a part that is becoming increasingly wider and they may notice more of the scalp is showing when the hair is pulled back. 

When women seek medical attention for hair loss, usually their doctor will do blood work to rule out any diseases whose symptoms may be hair loss like thyroid or autoimmune disease.  Before seeking medicall attention, you might just consider your heredity.  Did other females in the family have thinning hair at your age?  Does male pattern baldness run in your family?  
Another way for doctors to detect reasons for your hair loss is to examine the scalp with a magnifier.  If there is a pattern of varying sized follicles, this might indicate what is called androgenetic alopecia or genetical hairloss.  Even women suffer from what is usually called "male pattern baldness", but because of their hormonal makeup they usually do not go totally bald.  

This condition which affects millions of women each year, is the most common type of hair loss in women.   It has been reported to affect 50% of women.  It usually affects older women but can also occur in teenagers. 

Usually, when a hair follicle is shed, it is replaced by one of the same size.  However in women with female pattern hair loss, the new hair is finer and thinner.  Follicles shrink and eventually they quit growing.  If the hair follicles are uniform in size, or if the hair loss is sudden it is usually caused by something other than heredity like a medical condition. 

Something else that most people don't think of as causing hair loss is braiding or hairstyles that cause stress on the hair follicle.  This type of hair loss is called traction alopecia.

So many things in women can bring on hair loss like pregnancy, thyroid disease, anemia, autoimmune disease, and skin conditions like psoriasis and seborrhea.  Other reasons can include extreme stress, surgery or other physical trauma, dramatic weight loss and too much Vitamin A.  It can take as much as a few weeks up to several months for hair loss to occur after one of these experiences. 

Menopause is thought to be one of the main causes of hair loss, but some doctors think that menopause and hair loss just happen at about the same time with no direct link. 





Saturday, February 2, 2019

One of the very first questions that a new hire or new student in the salon business asks is “what do I need to do to be successful in the salon business.  All of my advice had to do with the acronym LUCKY.  I always tell them that you have to be LUCKY.  Here’s what I mean:

Leave your real life and drama at home.  All of the people that I’ve known over the years that were truly successful in the salon industry were so because they were able to leave their stuff at home. You leave your baggage at the door. Every salon has policies  or procedures in place that explain to you their standards for “professional behavior “ including handling personal calls and your personal business.   You could use some examples of people that you might’ve seen in other businesses that you might consider “professional“. People like doctors, lawyers, CPA’s, bankers, and others.  Most of these people who are serious about what they do and how they make money usually aren’t interrupted by personal phone calls and don’t usually engage in personal conversations with their clients or patients.  You rarely will know any of their personal business.  I think there’s a good reason for that.   For you to know their personal business would be somewhat of a liability for them. What I mean by that is that based on what you know about them, their activities their family, where they live, their politics, hobbies, etc. you tend to “judge” them.  Your judgments about them could  make the difference between you being a continued patient or client or deciding that you don’t like or disagree with the person you’ve come to know.  In the salon business we should really think about that long and hard. This could be one of the most important factors standing between you and being successful in the salon industry. You want people to continue to come to you for services. You want them to buy additional services. You want them to buy products. You want them to refer their family and friends. You want them to follow your advice  and take your instruction so that they’re hair, nails, or skin, will look like a professional did it and others will want to seek you out.  By taking you seriously and following your advice, they’ll be able to maintain the look that you’ve given them in the salon.  This may not happen if they judge you based on the personal information you share about your lifestyle, habits, and they judge you based on that information.

Understand how you make money in the hair salon business. People buy from people they like.  People immediately decide within seconds of meeting you whether or not they like you.  Unfortunately about 90% of their decision is based upon the visual impression ; HOW YOU LOOK!!! Yes, your appearance is paramount if you are to be successful long term. Now that that’s out of the way, let’s look at how you make your money.  You generate money through customer count and ticket average.  Whether you are the owner, manager or stylist, that’s how it works.  If  all you do is the service for which the customer came to see you, then you will need to do more and more customers to get more and more money. If, however, you inform and recommend and your customers buy additional services ( higher ticket average ) and they refer new business to you,  you may not need to work quite as hard.  This doesn’t happen if you spend your time talking about yourself. It happens as a result of you talking about the guest, their haircare needs, and their desires.

Communication is a two way street.   You have to understand how the process works; there’s a sender and receiver. Each of those has a responsibility in order that the lines of communication are clear and you avoid misunderstandings. When communicating you have to be open to others preconceived views, opinions and commonly held beliefs.  Some of the best advice I ever received was “don’t tell them what you can’t  do, tell them what you can do”.  It also means give them the good news first, for example “I  can condition & cut your hair today, but unfortunately it is not in the best shape for a perm today”.  Always work on improving your vocabulary and your grammar.
Knowledge is power! KNOW YOUR STUFF! It’s no one else’s buy your responsibility to be an “everlearner” .

Yield to the demands of the industry, the customers needs, fellow workers. The industry will yield or deliver to you in proportion to you dedication, commitment and longevity. People can’t find you if you’re not there when they return to see you.  STAY PUT! It takes time to develop a following and to fit in with your surroundings.  Don’t look for excuses or fool yourself by thinking that you’ll change the way business is done.  Embrace it, Confucius, the Chinese philosopher  said “work hard and the money will follow”.

Moisture & Hair?

It has  occurred to me that not everyone, (especially people with naturally curly hair), realizes the effect of moisture on the hair. Extreme temperatures and moisture in the air affect the hair because those things affect the bonds in the hair called “hydrogen bonds” that can cause “temporary changes to the texture (feel) of the hair, and the behavior of the hair; making it straight or curly.  So for example if you’ve blown dry and straightened your hair and then expose your hair to moisture or “humidity”, you can expect your hair to revert to its former state.  The same is true for curling your hair, moisture will undo the curl.  Hot and cold temperatures also affect the outside or “cuticle” layer of the hair.  The  cuticle of the hair shaft acts  like a window. Those windows have hinges that allow them to open and close depending upon the temperature. When it’s very cold, the cuticles (windows)  will close and the hair will appear  shiny and smoother. At the other end of the spectrum, in the very extreme heat the cuticle will open, making the hair look frizzy or dull.   When the hair is exposed to constant heat, whether it’s from the temperature, or especially from heat devices like curling iron and flat iron‘s, those windows can sometimes be broken off the hair shaft and leave the hair with no ability to maintain any moisture level. It also renders the  hair in a state of constant dryness with very dull and frizzy look.  The cuticle layer cannot be re-generated!  Once it’s gone, it’s gone!

This  all sounds so negative. However, there is a remedy for this situation.   The remedy is MOISTURE! . If you  still have a cuticle layer in tact, and you able to moisturize the hair, then daily and/or weekly treatments can result in improved condition.  There are ranges  of what is called “ porosity” . Porosity is the hairs ability to absorb moisture.  This “ability” has to do with how much of the cuticle layer is still intact.  The porosity ranges from desirable to undesirable. Desirable of course is when you have most of the cuticle layer in tact and moisturizing and sealing the cuticle helps to improve the behavior and the look and feel of the hair. Undesirable, being where there is no cuticle left intact and it is difficult and sometimes impossible to keep moisture in the hair. Now that this is explained, let me further explain  an old wives tale, “I can’t condition my hair because conditioners make my hair too limp“. This couldn’t be further from the truth! The reason for someone’s hair to go flat after conditioning is simply that they’ve use the wrong conditioner! If you use a conditioner that lays on the outside of the hair, and you have fine  hair,  most likely you will get limp hair.  However, with proper moisturizing i.e. one that allows the moisture to penetrate and for the cuticle to close afterward, you will get renewed body, improved condition and lots and lots of shine. We don’t always get an opportunity to explain this to people because they’re so convinced that they can’t have conditioning. The truth about it is that it is the lack of moisture that causes here to go limp, or able to retain curl or style and has a constant look of frizz and dullness.   Most salon quality conditioners  have a balance of moisture and protein. As I said earlier, the moisture improves the hair’s flexibility and shine, and the protein helps to strengthen and reconstruct the hair. For hair that has some level of undesirable porosity, it’s also important to follow the deep conditioning or moisturizing with a leave in conditioner.  Leave in conditioners have a different pH and are formulated to help seal the cuticle , which in turn locks in the moisture.  There are other products like “serums“ that also aid with locking in moisture and sealing the cuticle. These serum‘s can be used as moisturizing conditioners and sealers.  Many if the salon level serums are fortified and infused with  botanical ingredients like silk protein and lipids.   I find these products to be terribly misused.  People are given wrong instruction and therefore don’t have the success that they’re looking for. Serums can be used on damp hair as well as dry here. When they were used on damp hair the hair is able to absorb them as it dries and it helps to moisturize and restructure the hair shaft. The trick is to use little amounts at a time;  on some heads of hair,  four or five dime size amount’s while the hair is damp gives the best results.  Serums should also be followed with the leave in conditioner. They can be used on dry hair to “polish” and “seal” the cuticle layer.

Sunday, January 20, 2019

I’ve been asked a number of times in the salon “ what is the etiquette for tipping in a salon?”. After 35 years in the salon business and a little research, I can tell you that the average tip ranges from a minimum of 15% for services done by a new stylist in a new salon to upwards of 25% for services rendered on a regular basis with a stylist that you “requested”, or with whom you go to on an appointment basis.

Even when someone is not  satisfied with their service, most people will still tip, but at a lower percentage.  This lower percentage tip would be an indication of their dissatisfaction, and a signal to management that perhaps there’s a problem.

Tipping your haircare professional is a gesture or expression of your satisfaction as well as your intent to see or request their services again.  Some customers have said that they tip in order to ensure future “good service” with the stylist of their choice.  It’s their way of giving them a hug and “showing their stylist the love”.