Tuesday, January 2, 2024

Steps to a Perfect Perm

 Consultation:  Be sure your customer understands that this procedure really is “permanent“. That means that the curl is there until it is cut off. Over the course of time the texture may relax, depending upon Home hair care, But the perm is still there.

I really important part of consultation is Home Maintenance customers need to know that due to the chemical service, the moisture level in the hair will be affected; i.e. reduced, depleted, and need of moisturizing. That’s dried out will tend to look like the perm is “falling out“. But the secret to maintaining a perm is moisture and conditioning. Moisture on the inside to define the curl and conditioning on the outside, to smooth the cuticle, and make the hair, shiny and manageable. 

You need to know how the customer intends to care for this permed hair; Will they be wearing it curly, blow, drying it, using a curling iron, etc. disinformation will be important to determining which formula to use, and the strength or intensity of the curl.

Cut before the Perm: this subject is always controversial between hairstylist and customers. In days of old, it was almost impossible to perm the hair without fishhooks, and or damage to the ends, because of the chemicals used so hairdressers got in the habit of cutting afterward, to remove the fishhooks and to make the hair look in better condition. So as a result, most hairstylist and customers, believe that it’s better to cut afterward. Because of the improvement in chemicals over the years and the ability to determine the strength of the curl, it’s always better to cut before you don’t need to be pulling on a new perm and, the chemicals used, sometimes make it difficult to get smooth even tension with freshly permed here. 

THE EXCEPTION TO THE RULE IS THAT IF CUTTING THE HAIR BEFORE WOULD RENDER THE HAIR TOO SHORT TO PERM, THEN CUTTING AFTER IS NECESSARY.

Sectioning: This is the roadmap for your perm. Sectioning gives you a good idea about the head shape, how your sections will fit together and also let you accommodate the new hairstyle . If you are a busy hairstylist with more than one customer going at one time, sectioning also enables you to walk away to tend to another customer and come back and continue on. You may also have an assistant and sectioning will let them know exactly how you want things done.

Another important feature about sectioning is that enables you to rinse and blot and neutralize thoroughly. Having the hair sectioned will give you a clear pattern from start to finish.

Wrapping in solution: this is something most hairdressers don’t want to do because they’ve been programmed that you have to be fast and that if you’re not, you can damage the hair. They make lotion wrapped perms because they give a more intense and uniform curl. The chemistry has changed over the years and you don’t have to worry about damaging the hair. All you have to do is try it and get used to it. The hair will be wet, (which is how most hairdressers like to wrap.), detention will be uniform all over the head. The hair gets conditioned while wrapping and wrapping in solution accommodates all hair types except hair that’s been Colored with highlift tint, lightened, or highlighted. Try it you’ll like it!

Rinsing: This is a much neglected step! Most manufacturers of perms’ Directions say five minutes minimum Time for rinsing. The rule of thumb is five minutes for 5 inches of length. For every additional inch of length add an additional minute of rinsing. So, for example, for hair that is 12 inches long, the timing would be 12 minutes. This length of hair was probably wrapped with a specialty wrap like spiral, wrap, or piggyback, and needs additional rinsing. If you use this rule of thumb, you will never go wrong! Hair that isn’t rinsed properly cannot be neutralized properly. Keep that in mind. 

Blotting: this procedure has been neglected forever. Let me make one thing clear, manufacturers, do not want to putting permanent waves under the dryer in place of blotting. The only time permits go under the dryer is if the instructions suggest dryer heat for processing, never in place of blotting Rule of thumb is at least two salon towels, squeezing the head, like a melon, followed by paper towels, to ensure that all the water has been removed. For extra long hair, you simply wrap, two towels around the customers per wrapped head and let them lay back in the bowl with the towels to help absorb water  Before towel blotting. Improper blotting leaves excess water which will dilute the neutralizer and As a result, you will have a very weak perm. The perm will look good when you remove the rods because let’s don’t forget the bonds have also been affected but when the hair dries, you will see that it is processed.

Neutralizing: this is What makes the curl!. Prior to neutralizing, there is no curl. Applying waving lotion, allows the bonds in the hair to shift, and the new curl formation to take place, rinsing sets the curl and neutralizers harden, the curl in the new curl pattern. This is how curl happens. If any of the steps are neglected, you run the risk of damaging the hair, under processing and or over processing.

The lotion is rinsed “out” of the hair, so is important to use very warm water when rinsing.

The neutralizer is rinsed “off “the hair so it is it important to use cool water when rinsing. Cool water keeps the cuticle layer intact, tight to the hair and leaves the hair shiny and manageable.

You should recommend to the guest that After their first shampoo, they want to do a deep conditioning treatment. This will rebuild the moisture level and make their curls springy and manageable.

Be sure you have a talk with your customer before they leave the salon and let them know that your job was to put the curl in the hair, their job is to keep the curl looking good and lasting long. This can only be accomplished with Proper Salon quality products.